Installing beams and rim joists

The header joist, parallel to the ledger and tying together the ends of the extended joists, is not supported directly by the beams or posts. For example, cantilevering can extend a deck over a slope that is too steep or rocky to allow footings and posts at the corners.

Such an extension creates space that otherwise might not be usable. Cantilevering creates a floating effect on a deck of any size. With footings inside the perimeter of the deck, the structure appears to hang in space. The distance from the ledger to the beam should be at least twice the distance of the overhang. The beam that supports a cantilevered deck can be a single board, a pair of boards mounted on either side of the posts, or a laminated beam of two or three boards fastened together.

Such laminated beams can likewise rest in post caps or flank the posts. Get a Free Estimate. Schedule a Free Estimate. Toggle navigation Installing Deck Beams and joists. Mounting Mount the beams on the sides of the posts or on top, using the method that best suits the specific requirements of your design and construction details.

Crowning Beams or any lumber for that matter might display a slight crown the high point of a curvature. Fasteners In general, hex-head or carriage bolts provide more strength to structural joints than lag screws. Installing rim joists Rim joists are the outer joists of the deck frame and typically define its edges. Installing inner joists Inner joists bear the weight of the decking and everything that goes on it. Using a combination square, mark the ledger for the edges of the joist hangers.

Decking Patterns In the simplest and most straightforward rail decking pattern , the boards are laid perpendicular to the joists, but there are many ways to vary this layout. The key to making decking patterns safe is to recognize that offset patterns mean that decking boards have to span a longer distance than perpendicular decking.

Blocking and Bridging To stabilize joists more than 8 feet long, install blocking or bridges. Building a Cantilevered Deck Not all decks have their edges neatly corresponding to the edges of the posts and beams.

Deck Repair Deck Care and Repair. Follow us on instagram - artmetaltoronto. Functionality, durability and aesthetic look of wo. Take a look at this photo of the engineered wood I beams installed on the second floor. We installed these beams 16 inches on center and set exactly 1. Nails are driven one on each side of the vertical member of the joists, down through the bottom flange into the top plate of the wall. When you install the rim joist, it is imperative that the wood I beam joists are vertical and not leaning or twisting in any direction.

These joists are designed to bear load only when installed vertically, and the rim board plays an important role in keeping these joists from twisting, and becoming weak. When plywood is added to the surface, after the rim joist is installed, the solution is an extremely strong and well-supported structure. Cut and place the first rim board in place. It is likely that the rim board will need to be installed in a few sections one piece of lumber will not be long enough.

Butt joints should be made between wood I joists as opposed to on them to avoid nailing close to the edge of the joist top or bottom plate and splintering. When the rim board is in place, you can manually drive a few nails into the wood I beam joists to hold it in place. The rim joist should be toe nailed into the top plate below using the appropriate nail size likely 12d or 16d nails , depending on the material.

Toe nailing is accomplished by nailing through the face of the rim board diagonally down into the top of the wall plate. The concept is somewhat similar to blind nailing hardwood flooring. At least one nail should be installed through the rim board into the top and bottom of each I beam joist. Some I joist manufacturers may allow for two nails. Finally, when then plywood is installed on the surface, subfloor nails usually 8d should be driven every six inches from the plywood down into the rim joist.

Together, this nailing combination creates a very strong structure. On the side of the house close to the existing townhome, we were unable to install a rim joist because it would be impossible to nail the board in place.

There is no access to the outside of the wall. Attached or freestanding decks may use a double thick rim joist for a flush or inset beam instead of a drop or under support beam.

The joists fasten to the double rim with joist hangers, and the supporting rim joist-beam provides a lower profile deck structure. The blocks or rim joist prevent the parallel joists from twisting and closes the cavity between their ends, so it needs to be the same depth.

Some deck builders use larger dimensional lumber for the rim board. They attach it so that it is raised above the level of the joists and flush with the top of the deck boards. This creates a picture frame finish and hides the end grain of deck boards.

Blocking the open ends of the joists increases the size options for the deck rim board. One option often used is to cover the blocking and joist ends, and sometimes deck board ends, with a 1-inch thick faceplate of different or exotic wood to enhance the visual appeal of the deck.

Double rim joists commonly are only used for inset or flush beams, or to create a picture frame finish. An exception is to strengthen spliced rim boards, to minimize bounce, or for more substantial mass to fasten railing posts to. People tend to stand at the railings near the deck edge which can increase bounce and flex, especially on cantilevered joists. Doubling the rim boards on runs longer than one board length allows for staggered seams which would be stronger and less flexible.

Some builders use a rim joist the same dimensions as the joists, and then double it with a larger depth plank. This creates a picture frame border and hides end grain on deck boards for a neater finish. Another common practice is to block the openings between joists as the fasteners go through side grain instead of weaker end grain. The blocks space the joists, improve structural rigidity, decrease bounce, and provide better backing for railing posts.

The rim board is then fastened to the side grain of the blocks instead of the joist end grain. The look and material used are similar to doubling the rim board but the result is stronger. Before installing the deck rim joist it is a common practice to run a string line from one end joist or band board to the other at the very tip or end.

The string will identify joists that are longer or shorter. Either move the string to align with the shortest or replace it or them with a longer plank. To ensure the rim board is straight, trim the joists to be flush with the string line. Some builders use blocks or a rim joist to comply with the Code, others use both.

The purpose is to prevent rotation of the joists and firm up the deck edge. There are different ways to install and fasten the rim joist to the deck. Mark the location of the joists of the inside face of the rim joist using a square and place an X where the joist goes.

You should extend the line onto the top edge for ease of alignment. This will provide a shelf rest to support the rim plank and is easy to remove when done. Make sure the rim plank is crown up before installing it. Structural screws are more popular and are replacing nails as they have greater holding power. One method is to begin fastening at the middle joist and work outward to the end joists. Move outward in both directions aligning and fastening with one nail or screw at each joist.

Another method is to begin fastening the rim at one end joist with one nail or screw and work toward the other end. Once the rim is fastened to each joist, go back and drive in the rest of the fasteners. Use a speed square to make sure joists are square with the line; some joists may need a bit of persuasion to align correctly.