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Don't Screw Up Online. Candy Game. Physics Game. Goose Game. ET Game. Word Game. Color Up. Go Up Dash. Animal Memory Game. Elementary Arithmetic Game. Hop Game Online. Puzzle Coloring Game. FGP Plumber Game. Knot Logical Game. Battle dress was a type of clothing among the Naboo that was worn by certain members of the Royal House of Naboo when they went into combat.

It became largely ceremonial during many years of peace on the planet. The Queen 's royal battle dress [2] included a broad black waistband fastened over a black surcoat and a long red dress made of blast -damping fabric.

It was worn with a headdress [4] that incorporated a wig and was held in place with pins, and a sturdy pair of boots. The handmaiden's uniform was a maroon dress [3] made of dark velvet with a lighter satin finish on the skirt's lining. The side seams of the dress, its interior lining, and the trousers had gold trim stripes [5] that were bright enough to see at night. Amidala was then able to secure her throne room alongside the Royal Naboo Security Forces. Later during her reign, Amidala used the handmaiden's battle dress when a sando aqua monster disturbed the royal boathouse.

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Do an additional knot just in case. Then, clip the thread. Each sequin was hand-stitched this way. I used golden thread because it made it appear like the sequins were stitched through in the vines, as they are on the original costume.

These are all the little things people may not expect with replica costumes. But the results are so beautiful.

Photo taken before the sequins were added. Before hemming, I let the chiffon rest and hang on the skirt. This is often necessary to get an even hem. The part cut on the bias will always hang down and stretch a little. You need to let it do that, and then re-cut the bottom edge of the skirt, to get a nicer hem. This is most prevalent on circle skirts, but there was a lot of bias at the side seams on this as well.

Thankfully, the netting overlay did not stretch at all, so I had an easier job of matching them together and trimming off the excess chiffon before hemming.

It slightly rolls and encases the delicate fabric edge. I finished the construction of the waistband as well, and attached it to the skirt pieces. I added a zipper in the back and snap closures at the top. The edges were serged and they acted as one piece for each panel. The sleeves were made of two pieces each - the main piece and the cuff. I did not worry about a lining even though the combined fabrics are semi-transparent in bright light, because the corset would cover up anything below.

The very top of the neckline and the arms are OK being shown through. Once all the pieces were together, I constructed the bodice minus the sleeves.

I inserted elastic into the back waistline area and the top hem area. I hemmed the blouse as well, at the bottom. I left the blouse longer rather than shorter.

I knew it would be tucked into the skirt. Making the blouse hit about mid-thigh helps this, rather than it being stuck squished underneath the corset.

The sleeves have a channel at the top made from hemming that encase elastic, and then the central channel must be made from bias time. To match, and to save my budget, I made matching narrow bias tape out of the chiffon. I carefully pinned it and stitched it on the reverse side of each sleeve. Then, I inserted the elastic in. The bottom of the sleeve, where it meets the cuff, has gathered stitches rather than elastic.

Matching bias tape out of That's a first. I realised to finish them nicely, I had to add a lining and construct them a little differently. It was harder, because they close by almost overlapping with velcro or with buttons and loops. My client preferred buttons, so I created bias loops out of matching chiffon.

I found satin-covered bridal buttons at the store and used some matching dye to tint them to the correct color. Once the sleeves were complete, I inserted them into the bodice structure, and finished off any top hems of the bodice. I created spaghetti straps out of the matching chiffon, and stitched them in. I also added a few of the rose appliques that are present on the real costume straps. The last detail was stitching the buttons on by hand, adding a clothing tag, and adding the other set of snaps near the spaghetti straps that would hook up to the shawl.

This photo was taken before hemming and a few other steps like the buttons, straps, etc Did you assume I was done? I was silently dreading figuring those out, so I actually left that task for the final day I was completing the costume.

I need to write a small love letter to these ribbons. They were a marvelous find. So I spent a lot of time researching silk ribbons. And I say silk, but ended up buying rayon ribbons. They feel as delicate as silk, though, so I often refer to them that way. An Etsy seller inherited a huge stock of antique French millinery ribbon from the s and had plenty of different color options.

I tried to get about 10 yards of each based on what was available. I also had a few extra yards in a different color for the green headband. I used pretty much all of the yardage I purchased of the ribbons! So that was a good call. Now, I had to figure out how to attach them. I tackled those first, to get more comfortable working with this beautiful ribbon.

More on that in the accessories section. Let me just say again, this ribbon was perfect. It looked so much like the silk ribbons used in the real costume. The texture, the semi-transparency, the colors, the weightlessness and flow….

Just perfect. The mid-arm area ribbons and cuff ribbons were cut to length, FrayCheck-ed on the ends, and trimmed. I gathered them together similarly and tacked them to the front area of the sleeve.

I read that the real costume had them attach with clear snaps grinds teeth at the rear of the sleeve, so I carefully arranged them and tacked them down carefully, then added snaps near the back.

I solved this problem with two little thread loops, that the ribbons could be guided through. If desired, the ribbons could just be tied in the back tightly as well, and the snaps not utilized. I debated on how to attach the ribbons to the cuffs. I read that others had tried to tack the ribbons down on the bodice but it turned out terribly. The center arm ribbons were a good compromise, but the cuff ribbons are more complex. After pinning and experimenting, I decided to utilize thread loops again.

I cut about 4 yards of each ribbon and stitched them together in the center. I had a thread loop at the top front of the cuff and top rear of the cuff that I fed the ribbons through. The ribbons are removable if need be, but can stay on the costume before tying them too. I previously mentioned the buttons gave me an extra bonus.

This solved my problem of wanting the ribbons to stay in place, but not wanting to permanently tack them down! I was very happy about that. So I left the ribbons that way, and they are manually tied off at the bottom wrist area.

And I thought the lengthiest part of this costume was going to be the corset! But the blouse and skirts beat it by a long shot. In case I forget to mention it at the end, when I was taking photos of this costume outside, the ribbons were so delicately floating in the breeze. It was one of those small things in life that brings a smile to your face. It was so ethereal. At the very beginning of this project, I draped and drafted the corset from scratch on my dress form, which was padded to the correct measurements.

I created the mockup out of duck cotton and steel boning, and it was sent off for a fitting. It came back for a few alterations and was sent back out for a fitting with the accompanying blouse, which was perfect! I tweaked the pattern as necessary, and proceeded to the embroidery. I was a little behind schedule at this point so the task of the corset embroidery was daunting, but I was willing to take on the challenge. I mention that I was in a little bit of a time crunch at this point - so my process was a little all over the place here.

Many problems arose, and it might sound silly with how much I had to run around, but it was stressful! I conquered it, but it was not the ideal process to get the end product. It rarely is.

I know MOST of the limitations and how to deal with them. The main limitations are:. Hoop size. This is exceptionally tiny when you think about all the detail on the bodice. It also means you have to line more areas and more sections up. The design detail. It only picks up basic shapes and does NOT do well with fine detail. The computer I have to attach to the sewing machine. Neither are promising. The PC runs faster than the notebook, but I needed to work down in my studio for this, so I went with the laptop.

I debated on whether to do the embroidery by hand, as most cosplayers do - or by machine. I read that the real costume was done by machine, so I decided to try it that way. Machine embroidery is not necessarily easier - it just comes with a different set of struggles.

It takes almost as long, or only shaves minimal time off of hand embroidery. But, it can be more accurate if done well. Thinking I could get the entire design to embroider, the main pieces and all the stitch lines , I spent hours tracing the design into photoshop and adding colors to it. I utilized different photos and diagrams other people had put up online for reference.

Even a mm off looks funky. So you have to be clever with which areas you break up, and which will overlap. I separated the embroidery out into 9 sections. So the colors are exaggerated or completely different. You adjust in your thread choice what the actual color will be. I had to create separate image files for all of these pieces, all on the correct scale.

I also had to transfer them onto my dinosaur of a notebook and work on digitizing them.



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